---
title: "Fann Mountains – Trekking Guide to Tajikistan"
description: "Trekking the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan on your own: the route over the Chimtarga Pass day by day, getting to the trailhead, visas, water, acclimatisation and gear tips."
canonical_url: "https://gramino.com/blog/fann-mountains-trekking-guide-tajikistan"
last_updated: "2026-11-10"
---

# Fann Mountains – Trekking Guide to Tajikistan

Authors: Michaela Czempková

Date: 2026-11-10

Trekking the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan on your own: the route over the Chimtarga Pass day by day, getting to the trailhead, visas, water, acclimatisation and gear tips.

Dreaming of a mountain trek where you sleep beneath five-thousand-metre peaks, swim in turquoise lakes and drink tea with shepherds in the evening? **The Fann Mountains** (*Fanskie gory* in Russian) in north-western Tajikistan offer exactly that kind of adventure. In a small area you’ll find dozens of glacial lakes, a string of peaks over 5,000 metres and the Chimtarga Pass at around 4,750 m – the highest point in the range that can be crossed without climbing gear.

This guide covers the **classic traverse from Artuch camp over the Chimtarga Pass to the village of Voru**. It has everything you need to do it on your own: how to get to the trailhead, how demanding the route is, where to get water, how to acclimatise and what to pack.

I did this seven-day trek in 2025 with David on an expedition for Expedition Club, where David works as a mountain guide. What struck me most about the Fann Mountains were the stunning lakes – and how close you get to the five-thousand-metre peaks.

## **Key facts and contents**

- **Trek name:** Fann Mountains traverse over the Chimtarga Pass (*Chimtarga Pass Trek*)
- **Location:** Tajikistan, Sughd region, Pamir-Alay mountains
- **Total distance:** approx. 60 km
- **Total elevation:** approx. 4,700 m of ascent and 5,000 m of descent
- **Highest and lowest point:** Chimtarga Pass (approx. 4,750 m), start at Artuch and finish at Voru (both at roughly 2,000 m)
- **Duration:** 7 days of walking, 8–9 days with a buffer for acclimatisation and weather
- **Direction and season:** an arc from Artuch via the Alauddin Lakes and the Chimtarga Pass to Voru; season June–September
- **Start and finish:** Artuch mountain camp – Voru village in the Archamaidan valley
- **Official information source:** none – the trek has no managing body or website
- **Planning and preparation:** permits (national park fee), visas, insurance, navigation and maps
- **Logistics on the trek:** sleeping and tent, food and cooking, water and water treatment
- **Gear:** clothing, footwear and poles, electronics
- **Dangers and difficulty:** weather, terrain, altitude sickness, health and first aid, shepherd dogs
- **Day-by-day route:** seven stages from Artuch to Voru, rest day, recommended direction
- **Practical tips:** budget, money, phone signal, language

[Map](https://mapy.com/s/nonohukova)

## **Name of the trek**

There is no single official name for the trek. In English it’s called the *Chimtarga Pass Trek* or the *Fann Mountains Trek*, or simply the classic Fann Mountains traverse. The range is also spelled *Fan Mountains*, in Russian *Фанские горы*.

Watch out for place names: maps, travel agencies and locals use a mix of Tajik, Russian and English transliterations. Bolshoi Allo lake also appears as *Big Allo* or *Buzurg Alo*, and the Alauddin Lakes as *Alaudin*. The first time a place comes up in this article, I give its transliterated and English name, as names vary from map to map.

## **Location**

The Fann Mountains lie in north-western **Tajikistan** in the Sughd region, close to the border with **Uzbekistan**. They belong to the **Pamir-Alay** mountain system and are hemmed in between the Zeravshan and Hissar ranges. The highest peak is **Chimtarga** (5,489 m), and right next to it stands the glaciated **Energia** (5,120 m).

The landscape is dry and dusty: grey and rust-coloured scree slopes, sharp rocky peaks and, in between, **turquoise glacial lakes** fringed with juniper. The Fanns lie outside the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO), so unlike the Pamirs you don’t need a special permit.

*View from a ridge over snowy peaks and turquoise tarns*

## **Total distance**

The classic traverse from Artuch to Voru is **roughly 60 kilometres** long. Depending on exactly where you start and finish and how many acclimatisation side trips you add, it ranges between 55 and 65 km. So the distance isn’t huge – the challenge lies in the altitude, the elevation gain and the terrain, not the kilometres.

## **Total elevation gain**

Over the whole trek you’ll climb roughly **4,700 metres** and descend around **5,000 metres**. Daily stages are short but steep: 800–1,000 m of ascent over 6–8 kilometres is typical. The toughest is the day you cross the Chimtarga Pass, with almost **1,800 m of descent**, much of it on loose scree.

## **Highest and lowest point**

The highest point is the **Chimtarga Pass** between the peaks of Chimtarga and Energia. Sources give its altitude as 4,740–4,760 m, most often **4,750 m**. You’ll only spend two days above 4,000 m, but they count: the highest camp below the Chimtarga Pass sits at 4,500 m, an altitude that can really take its toll.

The lowest points are the start of the trek – **Artuch** mountain camp – and the camp near **Voru** village, both at roughly **2,000 m**. The rest of the trek stays between 2,800 and 3,500 m.

## **Duration**

The walking itself takes **7 days**. But allow at least one or two spare days – for acclimatisation, bad weather or rest if a stomach bug knocks you out (which happens here more often than you’d like). Realistically, set aside **8–9 days in the mountains** plus 1–2 days to get there and back.

We didn’t need the spare day. We reached camp around 2 pm every day, pitched the tents and set off without packs on acclimatisation hikes up the surrounding hills.

*NEMO Dragonfly tent at dusk below a glacier*

*Descending a grassy ridge towards a turquoise lake*

## **Direction and season**

The route follows an arc: from Artuch south to the Kulikalon Lakes, then east to the Alauddin Lakes, south again below Chimtarga and over the pass west down into the Archamaidan valley and on to Voru. **This direction makes sense for two reasons.** First, your sleeping altitude rises gradually (roughly 2,400 → 2,800 → 3,500 → 4,500 m), giving you time to acclimatise. Second, the western side of the Chimtarga Pass is steep, loose scree that is far more pleasant to descend than to climb with a full pack.

The season runs roughly **from June to September**. Early in the summer there’s more snow on the pass but also more water in the streams. Later in the season the snow disappears and smaller springs dry up. The best timing therefore depends mainly on how much snow fell that year and on the state of the water sources.

We set off in mid-August. It was warm in the valleys and cooler in the mountains in the afternoon, but it didn’t freeze – though you can’t count on that. It didn’t rain once and there was no snow on the Chimtarga Pass.

## **Start and finish**

### **Start: Artuch mountain camp**

Most treks in the Fann Mountains start at the **Artuch mountain camp** (*Artuch Alplager*), a former Soviet base for mountaineers. You’ll find accommodation, food, electricity to charge your devices and usually someone who speaks English. The camp lies about 8 km above the village of the same name. The road up is very rough, but some drivers are willing to take you **all the way up** – saving you two to three hours of trudging through the dust along the road. Bear in mind that a low-clearance car won’t make it; a 4x4 or a higher minivan is ideal.

### **Finish: Voru village**

The trek ends in the Archamaidan river valley at the village of **Voru**. Below the village there are family-run camps where you can sleep in a tent or under a shelter and be treated to plov, shashlik and homemade apricot jam. A road reaches Voru, so you can arrange a ride back to civilisation from here. There may be no mobile data in Voru, though. **So arrange your pick-up before the trek** for a specific day, or organise it via a satellite messenger or with help from locals.

## **Getting to the trailhead**

From Europe, there are two ways to reach the Fanns. Both start with a flight, typically with a change in Istanbul.

**Option 1: via Dushanbe (Tajikistan).** Flights from Istanbul to **Dushanbe** usually land at night. At the airport you’ll be surrounded by taxi drivers asking inflated prices, so either have a transfer arranged or haggle (a ride to the centre should cost tens of somoni, not hundreds). Have small euro or dollar notes ready – they may not have change for a large note. From Dushanbe to Artuch it’s **5–6 hours** by car over the Anzob Pass and through a long unlit tunnel that locals call the “tunnel of death”. A 4x4 or minivan transfer costs roughly **TJS 700–1,000 per vehicle**, depending on your bargaining skills and the size of the car. A plus: in Dushanbe you can easily buy gas canisters and a local SIM card.

**Option 2: via Samarkand (Uzbekistan).** **Samarkand** has more flight connections and is closer to the Fann Mountains. A taxi will take you to the border in under an hour, where you cross **on foot**. That’s faster than crossing by car, which can wait at the border for hours. On the Tajik side you continue to the town of **Panjakent** and from there it’s 2–3 hours to Artuch. Taxi drivers will practically fight over you at the border, so haggle. There’s an exchange office right at the border crossing.

**Our tip:** fly into Dushanbe and out of Samarkand (or the other way round). From Voru it’s only about two hours to the Uzbek border, so you don’t have to go back across the mountains to Dushanbe.

*A break by a mountain stream below a snowy peak*

*Crevassed glacier below rock walls*

## **Planning and preparation**

### **Permits**

You **don’t need any permit** for a trek in the Fann Mountains. A special permit (GBAO) is only required for Gorno-Badakhshan in the Pamirs, which the Fanns are not part of.

You do, however, need to pay a **national park entry fee**. It’s collected by rangers or soldiers at the busy lakes, typically the Kulikalon and Alauddin Lakes. The amount and the way it’s collected vary from year to year and from person to person – sometimes you get a proper receipt, sometimes it’s more of a negotiation. Foreigners pay more than locals. Carry small notes in somoni.

### **Visas**

**Tajikistan:** since 2022, citizens of the Czech Republic, Poland and dozens of other countries can enter **visa-free for up to 30 days** with just a valid passport – check whether your country is on the list. At the airport you’ll fill in a short arrival card; keep the second half, as you may need it when leaving. Foreigners must register within 10 days of arrival, which your accommodation will do for you. If you’re heading straight into the mountains for more than 10 days, spend the first night at a hotel or guesthouse and ask them to register you for your entire stay.

**Uzbekistan** (if you travel via Samarkand): citizens of most EU countries can also stay **visa-free for 30 days**. Take registration seriously here – your accommodation must register you, and you should **ask for a confirmation for every night**. It’s checked when you leave the country.

[Liteway Base Wallet Ultra](/p/liteway-base-wallet-ultra.md)

### **Insurance**

Don’t underestimate insurance. Get **travel insurance that covers mountain hiking up to 5,000 m.** It’s also important that it covers **mountain rescue, helicopter evacuation and repatriation** with sufficient limits.

Mountain rescue in Tajikistan is limited, and in the mountains you rely mainly on **self-rescue**, the emergency number 112 and your insurer. There’s usually no signal in the valleys, so I recommend carrying a **satellite messenger**. Many European countries have no embassy in Tajikistan, so check before you go which embassy provides consular assistance to your country’s citizens, and register your trip with your foreign ministry if it offers that service.

### **Navigation and maps**

The trek is **not waymarked**. Most of the time you follow a well-trodden path, but in places it fades: on the climb to the Ziyorat Pass, in the boulder moraines around Bolshoi Allo lake, or where shepherds and donkeys have worn dozens of parallel paths. Use the stone cairns for orientation, but don’t rely on them – they’re sometimes slightly off route.

The basis is a **GPS track in offline maps** on your phone. **Mapy.com** works well for the Fann Mountains, with most trails, passes and lakes marked. As a backup, you can get a **paper map of the Fann Mountains** published by EWP, plus a compass. You’ll find our whole route in the map above.

*Traversing a parched slope above a glacial valley*

*View from a ridge to a glacier and snowy peaks*

## **Logistics on the trek**

### **Sleeping**

On the trek you sleep **in your own tent** – there are no huts. Campsites are by the lakes and below the passes, mostly well known and well used:

- **At the popular lakes** (Kulikalon, Alauddin, Mutnye) it gets crowded in high season. Whoever arrives first gets to choose – and often walking a few hundred metres away from the chaikhana is enough to find a quieter, cleaner spot. Where food is sold or rangers are present, you sometimes pay to camp.
- **The camp below the Chimtarga Pass** is spread out – flat tent spots are scattered over a large area, with room for about ten tents in total. The lower spots are at roughly 4,100 and 4,350 m, the highest around 4,500 m, with more platforms even closer to the pass. The trek is mainly walked by groups of Russian hikers whose gear is carried by donkeys, so **arrive as early as possible, ideally by noon**, to be sure of a place for your tent.
- **At the start and finish** you can use the facilities of the Artuch mountain camp and the family-run camps near Voru, where you can sleep in a tent or under a roof, take a shower and get a hot meal.

[NEMO Dragonfly OSMO 2P](/p/nemo-dragonfly-osmo-2p.md)

### **Tent and sleep system**

Bring a [tent](/c/sleep/tents) that can handle **strong wind**. Campsites are often rocky and stakes won’t hold, so be ready to anchor to rocks. Longer [guylines](/c/sleep/stakes-and-guy-lines) will come in handy. Choose a [sleeping bag](/c/sleep/sleeping-bags) or [quilt](/c/sleep/quilts) with a comfort rating **around freezing**: at 4,500 m below the Chimtarga Pass, night temperatures can drop below zero. A good [three-season inflatable sleeping pad with higher insulation](/c/sleep/sleeping-pads/3-season-sleeping-pads) will protect you from the cold, rocky ground.

Unfortunately, campsites are often littered with rubbish and human waste. Be better than those before you: pack out all your rubbish, go to the toilet well away from water and the trail, and bury or pack out your toilet paper (the **Leave No Trace** principle).

## Sleeping gear for the Fann Mountains

- [NEMO Tensor All-Season](/p/nemo-tensor-all-season.md)
- [Patizon G 400](/p/patizon-g400.md)
- [Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2](/p/big-agnes-copper-spur-ul2.md)
- [Cumulus Panyam 600](/p/cumulus-panyam-600.md)
- [Patizon G 600](/p/patizon-g-600.md)
- [Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 XL](/p/big-agnes-copper-spur-ul2-xl.md)
- [Sea To Summit Aeros Premium Pillow (2026)](/p/sea-to-summit-aeros-premium-pillow-2026.md)
- [Tyvek 150x250 cm (for 2 people)](/p/tyvek-groundsheet-250-x-150-cm.md)
- [Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT](/p/therm-a-rest-neoair-xlite-nxt.md)
- [EVA Foam Pad 3 mm](/p/eva-foam-pad-3-mm.md)
- [Cumulus Protection Boots](/p/cumulus-protection-boots.md)

### **Food and cooking**

Buy food for the whole trek in advance. In Dushanbe, Panjakent and Samarkand you’ll find big bazaars with cheap nuts, dried fruit and bread, and supermarkets with instant noodles, oats and other basics. **Freeze-dried meals** are best brought from home.

[Gas canisters](/c/cooking/canisters-and-other-fuel) can’t go on the plane, so you have to buy them locally. They’re easy to find in Dushanbe. For reference: one 227 g canister was enough for David and me for the whole trek. But we only boiled water – in the morning for porridge and coffee, in the evening to rehydrate freeze-dried meals. If you plan to cook more, I’d recommend one large 450 g canister.

Every now and then you’ll be surprised by local enterprise. Some lakes have simple **chaikhanas** (teahouses) serving tea, plov, chips, biscuits, cola and even beer. Shepherds may offer you **kefir, yoghurt or bread**, and in the valleys you might be treated to a melon. But see it as a bonus – don’t rely on local supplies.

If your pack feels too heavy, at the lakes you can hire a **porter with a donkey** to carry it, for example all the way to the next camp.

*Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound backpacks*

*Cooking on an MSR PocketRocket stove by a NEMO Dragonfly tent*

## Cooking and food

- [MSR PocketRocket Deluxe](/p/msr-pocketrocket-deluxe.md)
- [TOAKS Titanium 1100 ml Pot with Bail Handle](/p/toaks-pot-1100-ml-bail-handle.md)
- [Sea To Summit Frontier UL Long Handle Spoon](/p/sea-to-summit-frontier-ul-long-handle-spoon.md)
- [REAL Turmat Pulled Pork with Rice](/p/real-turmat-pulled-pork-with-rice.md)
- [Adventure Menu Chicken Tikka Masala with Basmati Rice](/p/adventure-menu-chicken-tikka-masala-with-basmati-rice.md)
- [Summit To Eat Vegetable Tikka Masala with Rice](/p/summit-to-eat-vegetable-tikka-masala-with-rice.md)
- [Summit To Eat Pasta Bolognaise](/p/summit-to-eat-pasta-bolognaise.md)
- [Adventure Menu Penne Bolognese with Parmesan](/p/adventure-menu-penne-bolognese.md)
- [REAL Turmat Taco Bowl](/p/real-turmat-taco-bowl.md)
- [Summit To Eat Beef Stew with Potatoes](/p/summit-to-eat-beef-stew-with-potatoes.md)

### **Water**

Water is **a weak point** in the Fann Mountains. The lakes don’t dry up, but their water is the most polluted. If you find another source, I recommend using that instead. Everything from the surrounding pastures, plus glacial silt, drains into the lakes. Almost everyone gets diarrhoea in Tajikistan anyway – sometimes even those who filter diligently. Still:

- Always **filter and also disinfect** your water with chemical tablets or a UV purifier.
- **Prefer inflowing streams, springs and glacial brooks** to lake water. The Mutnye (“murky”) Lakes are cloudy with dust and glacial silt, hence the name. Murky water will clog your filter in no time and you’ll have to [backflush it constantly.](/blog/maintaining-mechanical-water-filters)
- In towns, drink only bottled water or tea.

[Katadyn Micropur Forte MF 1T](/p/katadyn-micropur-forte-mf-1-t.md)

### **Filtering and treating water**

The foundation is a mechanical [**filter**](/c/gear/water-filters) – better not travel to Central Asia without one. Combine it with [**chemical disinfection**](/p/katadyn-micropur-forte-mf-1-t) (tablets, drops) or a UV purifier. Carry bottles for at least **3–4 litres** and keep separate bottles for dirty and clean water.

On some sections there is **no water at all**, so carry a reserve:

- **Climb to the Ziyorat Pass** – the first water is on the descent to the Kulikalon Lakes; fill up 2–3 litres in the morning.
- **Climb to the Alauddin Pass** – the last reliable source is the stream in the valley below the pass; in a dry year nothing flows higher up.
- **Camp below the Chimtarga Pass** – water flows from the glacier, but mainly in the afternoon and evening. In the morning the stream may be dry, so **fill up in the evening for the next day too**. After the pass, you’ll only get more water from the river after the steep descent.
- **Bolshoi Allo lake** – around the campsite there’s mainly lake water. It’s better to collect clean water from smaller streams on the way down.

*Filtering water with a Katadyn BeFree filter*

*SteriPen Ultra UV purifier*

## Water filters and bottles

- [Katadyn BeFree 1 L](/p/katadyn-befree-1-l.md)
- [Sawyer Single Mini](/p/sawyer-single-mini.md)
- [HydroBlu Versa Flow Water Filter Package](/p/hydroblu-versa-flow-water-filter-package.md)
- [LifeStraw Peak Series Solo](/p/lifestraw-peak-series-solo.md)
- [Platypus QuickDraw Microfilter System](/p/platypus-quickdraw-microfilter-system.md)
- [LifeStraw Peak Series Collapsible Squeeze Bottle 1 L](/p/lifestraw-peak-series-collapsible-squeeze-bottle-1-l.md)
- [CNOC Vecto 2 L 28 mm](/p/cnoc-vecto-2-l-28-mm.md)
- [CNOC Hydriam 750 ml 42 mm](/p/cnoc-hydriam-750-ml-42-mm.md)
- [Platypus Softbottle 1.0 L Platy Logo Closure Cap](/p/platypus-softbottle-1-l-platy-logo-closure-cap.md)
- [Platypus Softbottle 1.0 L Platy Logo Push-Pull](/p/platypus-softbottle-1-l-platy-logo-push-pull.md)
- [HydroBlu Collapsible Canteen](/p/hydroblu-collapsible-canteen.md)

## **Gear**

On this trek you can carry everything on your own back or hire local donkeys. As on any trek, a lighter load pays off, because you’ll feel every extra gram on the climbs to the high passes. If you haven’t started lightening your gear yet, check out our guide on [**how to build a gear list**](/blog/how-to-build-an-ultralight-gear-list) and get inspired by [our gear lists](/blog/gear-list-mountain-trek-tajikistan).

You’ll find tent and sleeping, food and cooking and water treatment above under logistics. Here’s the rest of the gear.

### **Clothing**

Classic [layering](/blog/how-to-layer-clothing-for-treks): a base layer, a fleece or light insulating midlayer, a [**down jacket**](/c/clothing/down-jackets) for the evenings and a waterproof jacket for wind and storms. A warm hat and gloves are useful too. A **sun hoodie** – a light long-sleeved top with a hood, made of UPF-rated fabric – does a great job. The sun at high altitude is really strong, so don’t forget good **sunglasses**, [a hat](/p/gramino-trucker-hat), high-SPF sunscreen and lip balm.

## Clothing for a mountain trek

- [Turbat Maya Hood Trek Mns](/p/turbat-maya-hood-trek-mns.md)
- [Turbat Maya 2 LS Wmn](/p/turbat-maya-2-ls-wmn.md)
- [Montane Women's Anti-Freeze Hoodie (2025)](/p/montane-womens-anti-freeze-hoodie-2025.md)
- [Montane Women's Protium Lite Hoodie](/p/montane-womens-protium-lite-hoodie.md)
- [Turbat Dja Wmn](/p/turbat-dja-wmn.md)
- [Turbat Dja Shorts Wmn](/p/turbat-dja-shorts-wmn.md)
- [Montane Women's Dart XT Long Janes](/p/montane-womens-dart-xt-long-janes.md)
- [Turbat Maya Hood Trek Wmn](/p/turbat-maya-hood-trek-wmn.md)
- [Patizon Merino Beanie](/p/patizon-merino-beanie.md)
- [Montane Protium Glove](/p/montane-protium-glove.md)
- [Gramino Trucker Hat](/p/gramino-trucker-hat.md)

### **Footwear, socks, microspikes and poles**

You can do the trek in **trail running shoes** ([women’s](/c/footwear/women-s-trail-shoes) or [men’s](/c/footwear/men-s-trail-shoes)) with a grippy sole that holds on rocks and scree. If you prefer ankle support, you’ll appreciate higher boots, especially on the steep descents from the passes. Dust and small stones will definitely get into your shoes, so [**gaiters**](/p/tidy-gear-gaiters) are worth it. [**Trekking poles**](/c/gear/trekking-poles) are an absolute must on scree descents.

Good merino socks are well worth it. Míša wore [Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew](/p/darn-tough-light-hiker-micro-crew-lightweight-womens) and [Injinji Outdoor Midweight Mini-Crew Wool](/p/injinji-outdoor-midweight-mini-crew-wool) toe socks.

**Microspikes yes, crampons no.** You won’t need crampons or an ice axe on a summer trek. [**Microspikes**](/c/gear/microspikes) are useful, though, in case some snow remains on the pass or in the gullies, where it can linger for a long time. We didn’t need them in mid-August. But **ask locals or porters** in the valley about snow conditions on the pass – they’ll know best.

## Footwear, socks and trekking poles

- [Topo Athletic Women's Terraventure 4 Wide](/p/topo-athletic-terraventure-4-wide-womens.md)
- [Topo Athletic Terraventure 5 Men's](/p/topo-athletic-terraventure-5-mens.md)
- [Topo Athletic Terraventure 5 Wide Women's](/p/topo-athletic-terraventure-5-wide-womens.md)
- [Tidy Gear Gaiters](/p/tidy-gear-gaiters.md)
- [Darn Tough Women's Light Hiker Micro Crew Lightweight](/p/darn-tough-light-hiker-micro-crew-lightweight-womens.md)
- [Injinji Outdoor Midweight Mini-Crew Wool](/p/injinji-outdoor-midweight-mini-crew-wool.md)
- [Fizan Compact](/p/fizan-compact.md)
- [Fizan Compact Pro](/p/fizan-compact-pro.md)
- [Darn Tough Men's Hiker 1/4 Midweight](/p/darn-tough-hiker-1-4-midweight-mens.md)
- [Darn Tough Women's Bear Town Micro Crew Lightweight](/p/darn-tough-bear-town-micro-crew-lightweight-womens.md)

[Snowline Chainsen Light](/p/snowline-chainsen-light.md)

### **Electronics**

Electricity is only available at the start in Artuch camp and at the finish in Voru village, with nothing in between. Bring a big enough [**power bank**](/c/gear/powerbanks) – GPS on your phone drains the battery fast.

A light [headlamp](/p/nitecore-nu25-mct-ul) belongs in your kit too – Míša uses the [Nitecore NU25 MCT UL](/p/nitecore-nu25-mct-ul). And if you’re bringing a satellite messenger (see Insurance), bear in mind you may need to charge it from the power bank as well.

[Nitecore NB10000 Power Bank GEN4](/p/nitecore-nb10000-power-bank-gen4.md)

You’ll find all the gear we took through the Fanns, including Míša’s and David’s gear lists, in our article [**Gear list for a week-long mountain trek in Tajikistan**](/blog/gear-list-mountain-trek-tajikistan).

*Míša’s and David’s complete gear for the Fann Mountains trek*

## **Dangers and difficulty**

### **Weather**

Summer in the Fann Mountains is **mostly sunny and dry**. But mountains are mountains. Storms can build quickly in the afternoon, and at altitudes around 4,000 m it can snow at any time of year. Below the Chimtarga Pass you can get caught in a snowstorm lasting several hours even in summer. So follow a simple rule: **start each day’s stage early in the morning**, only go over passes in good visibility and stable weather, and ideally be at camp by early afternoon. A sharp, cold wind can blow on the Chimtarga Pass even when the weather is otherwise fine.

The other extreme is the **sun**. Above 3,000 m it can burn your skin faster than you think, and there’s rarely any shade in the mountains.

### **Terrain**

The trek is **physically demanding, but in summer it requires no technical climbing skills**. It follows well-trodden paths, but many of them are steep, dusty and gravelly. Expect:

- **scree and boulder fields** – especially around the Mutnye Lakes, below the Chimtarga Pass and around Bolshoi Allo lake,
- **steep climbs on dusty slopes** where your foot can slip with every step,
- **river fords and stream crossings** on stepping stones; after rain you may have to search upstream for a crossing point.

The climb to the Chimtarga Pass itself isn’t the hardest part. There’s just one steep section around 4,300 m where you need to be careful not to dislodge rocks onto people below. **The descent from the pass is more demanding** on the western side: slightly exposed sections, steep scree that slides under your feet, and crumbling rock. The path runs directly below the rock face, and especially in rain there’s a risk of **rockfall** from above. Stay alert, don’t linger below the face longer than necessary, and if you knock something loose, shout “rock!”. The lower part of the descent is a long scree slope you can almost ski down like snow.

The **last day to Voru** is also tough. Even though you’re only descending, the path first winds through a maze of boulders, then dusty terrain and finally a canyon along the river, so it’s slower going than you’d expect.

*On the trail below a rocky peak*

### **Altitude sickness**

The highest camp is at 4,500 m and the highest point of the trek is the pass at 4,750 m. These are altitudes where **acute mountain sickness** (AMS) can affect anyone, regardless of fitness. To avoid altitude sickness, follow these rules:

- **Gradual acclimatisation –** Above 3,000 m, don’t raise your sleeping altitude by more than about 300–500 m a day. Only go over the Chimtarga Pass after at least two or three nights above 3,000 m.
- **Climb high, sleep low –** At the Mutnye Lakes, take a light acclimatisation hike a few hundred metres higher in the afternoon and come back down to sleep.
- **Drink and eat enough –** Aim for 3–4 litres of fluids a day and avoid alcohol.
- **Don’t ignore symptoms –** Headache, nausea, loss of appetite, dizziness or insomnia mean stop – don’t go any higher. If the symptoms don’t improve by the next day or get worse, **descend to a lower altitude**.
- **Confusion, loss of coordination, breathlessness at rest or a cough** are symptoms of life-threatening cerebral (HACE) or pulmonary (HAPE) oedema. The only treatment is **immediate descent**, even at night and in bad weather, and calling for help.

[Sea To Summit Wilderness Wash Pocket Soap](/p/sea-to-summit-wilderness-wash-pocket-soap.md)

### **Health and first aid**

The most common problem here isn’t blisters but your **stomach and gut.** Sooner or later almost everyone gets diarrhoea, whether from water, food or fatigue. So keep your hands clean – on treks, Míša uses Sea To Summit Wilderness Wash soap in [solid](/p/sea-to-summit-wilderness-wash-pocket-soap) or [liquid](/p/sea-to-summit-wilderness-wash-100-ml) form.

Steep descents are hard on your **knees and ankles** – in this kind of terrain trekking poles really are a must.

Besides a [basic first aid kit](/blog/travel-first-aid-kit-what-to-pack) (blister plasters, disinfectant, painkillers), pack **anti-diarrhoea medication and oral rehydration salts**. Talk to your doctor before you leave about travel antibiotics and medication for altitude sickness. For mild altitude headaches, ibuprofen worked well for us.

[Sea To Summit Lightweight Dry Bag First Aid](/p/sea-to-summit-lightweight-dry-bag-first-aid.md)

*Checking the first aid kit and stomach medication in the tent*

*First aid kit with anti-diarrhoea medication within reach in the tent*

### **Animals**

You’ll most often meet **donkeys, goats, sheep and cows** – and with them **shepherd dogs**. These are large Central Asian livestock guardian dogs that take protecting their flock seriously. Give herds a wide berth and never walk through them. If a dog runs at you: stop, stay together as a group, hold your poles in front of you, speak calmly and firmly and **don’t run**. Usually you just need to wait a moment until the shepherd calls the dog back. Wildlife is scarce and shy. With a bit of luck you’ll see ibex or birds of prey circling above the ridges. The **snow leopard** does live here, but your chances of spotting one are practically zero.

### **Safety**

The Fann Mountains are **safe** for visitors. They lie in the north-west of the country, far from the tense border with Afghanistan. Local people are usually incredibly hospitable. The biggest risk to your wallet is the taxi drivers at the airport and at the borders.

## **Day-by-day route**

The daily stages are approximate and based on the route we walked. Times are pure walking time with short breaks; with a slower group or a heavy pack, allow more.

1. **Artuch camp → Chukurak lake** – approx. 2 km, ↑ 300 m, 1 h. A short warm-up day after the drive. If you’re feeling strong, you can go straight to the Kulikalon Lakes (approx. 5.5 km, ↑ 700 m, 3 h) and skip the Ziyorat Pass.
2. **Chukurak → Ziyorat Pass** (approx. 3,200 m) **→ Kulikalon Lakes** (approx. 2,800 m) – approx. 8 km, ↑ 1,000 m, ↓ 600 m, 6–7 h. The path is unclear in places on the climb, and there’s no water along the way.
3. **Kulikalon Lakes → Alauddin Pass** (approx. 3,800 m) **→ Alauddin Lakes** (approx. 2,800 m) – approx. 12 km, ↑ 1,000 m, ↓ 1,000 m, 7–8 h. A tough day with a long, dusty descent. There are chaikhanas by the lakes.
4. **Alauddin Lakes → Mutnye Lakes** (approx. 3,500 m) – approx. 7 km, ↑ 800 m, 4 h. A short but steadily climbing day. In the afternoon, treat your body to a light acclimatisation hike 400–500 m higher with a view of the Chimtarga Pass.
5. **Mutnye Lakes → camp below the Chimtarga Pass** (4,100–4,500 m) – approx. 5–6 km, ↑ 1,000 m, 4–5 h. Arrive early and fill up with water in the evening for the next day too.
6. **Camp → Chimtarga Pass** (approx. 4,750 m) **→ Bolshoi Allo lake** (*Big Allo* / *Buzurg Alo*, approx. 3,150 m) – approx. 12 km, ↑ 300–500 m, ↓ 1,800 m, 7–9 h. The queen stage: from the upper camp it’s one to two hours to the pass, followed by a long, careful descent over scree into the Zindon valley. You can swim in the lake.
7. **Bolshoi Allo → Archamaidan valley → Voru** – approx. 14–16 km, ↑ 100 m, ↓ 1,600 m, 6–8 h. A maze of boulders below the lake, dusty terrain and finally a beautiful canyon along the river. The first water is after about 4 km.

**A rest day** is best spent at the Mutnye Lakes (for extra acclimatisation) or at Bolshoi Allo, from where you can take a light hike to the upper Allo lake.

**We don’t recommend** doing the trek in the opposite direction: you’d climb up to the Chimtarga Pass on the worst loose scree, and without gradual acclimatisation.

*Climbing a scree slope below jagged peaks*

*Descending a steep scree slope*

## **Practical tips**

**Budget:** The biggest expense is the flight; on the ground Tajikistan is cheap. As a guide: a meal in a local restaurant costs TJS 50–110, a taxi around Dushanbe TJS 10–20, a transfer to the mountains TJS 700–1,000 per vehicle, and a night at a family-run camp near Voru including food around TJS 150–180 per person. Prices change from year to year, though, and depend a lot on your bargaining skills.

**Money:** The currency is the **Tajik somoni (TJS)**. Outside Dushanbe it’s cash only – you can’t pay by card anywhere in the mountains. Bring **euros or dollars** and change them in town – at a bank, an exchange office or your accommodation’s reception. There are ATMs in Dushanbe. Keep enough small somoni notes for fees, chaikhanas and transport in the mountains. If you’re continuing to Uzbekistan, it’s best to change money into Uzbek som in Samarkand; the rate at the border tends to be worse.

**Mobile signal and data:** **A local SIM with data** costs a few dozen somoni at the airport or in town; you’ll need your passport. In the mountains, though, expect that **there will mostly be no signal anyway.** So download your maps for offline use.

**Language:** The official language is Tajik, but you can also get by in **Russian**, which most people speak. English works in Dushanbe, Samarkand and tourist camps, but much less in villages and the mountains. It helps if you can read Cyrillic, know a few basic phrases and have an offline translator on your phone.

*Have you done the Fann Mountains or are you planning to? Tell us what advice you’d give others. And before you set off, check out our* [*gear lists*](/blog/how-to-build-an-ultralight-gear-list) *so your pack doesn’t drag you down on the scree below Chimtarga.*

This post is also available as [HTML](/blog/fann-mountains-trekking-guide-tajikistan).

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