---
title: "Riding the north: my first bikepacking trip"
description: "We've already gone through how to get started with bikepacking – now you'll find out how my first bikepacking trip turned out, what pitfalls I ran into, and what got me so hooked on it."
canonical_url: "https://gramino.com/blog/my-first-bikepacking-trip"
last_updated: "2020-11-26"
---

# Riding the north: my first bikepacking trip

Authors: Tomáš Roztočil

Date: 2020-11-26

We've already gone through how to get started with bikepacking – now you'll find out how my first bikepacking trip turned out, what pitfalls I ran into, and what got me so hooked on it.

Bikepacking is a minimalist approach to bike touring that lets you take even a loaded bike into more challenging terrain and to far more interesting places than you could with heavy panniers. It's the same with a bike as with a backpack – if you manage to [pack light](/blog/how-to-lighten-your-backpack-7-tips), you'll enjoy even technical trails, handle tough climbs with ease, and get much farther. On a weeklong trip, you'll easily get by with lightweight rackless bags, a few pieces of clothing, and lightweight gear for [sleeping](/c/sleep)outdoors. We covered [how to get started with bikepacking](/blog/how-to-get-started-with-bikepacking) last time – now I'll tell you how my first bikepacking trip actually turned out, what pitfalls I ran into along the way, and what it was about it that really got me hooked.

## **Ridges of the north**

The mountains of northern Czechia have fascinated me since childhood. On trips to the Krkonoše, the Jizera Mountains, and the Orlické Mountains, I learned to walk and ride uphill, and I fell in love with sweeping views of the landscape. Poring over maps, I always imagined how they could be linked into one long trek. But then I started exploring the empty mountains of Scotland, Norway, and southern Europe, and the idea of spending several weeks walking our heavily overcrowded ridges kind of stopped appealing to me.

But this spring brought me, as it did many of you, a lot of changes. Plans to move overseas and roam distant mountain ranges drifted away, and I had no choice but to turn my attention back home to our Czech basin for a while. As a die-hard lover of the north, though, I didn't let that put me off adventure, and instead of expeditions to the Scandinavian, Scottish, and Canadian mountains, I decided to dust off the map of our northern ridges. This time, though, I tossed my backpack in the corner and got to work building a bike – I decided to beat the quarantine blues by thoroughly preparing for my first bikepacking trip.

## **How to plan a route**

Lots of adventurers navigate their trips purely by some mysterious inner compass. I don't deny it exists, but I also live by the motto that half the adventure can be had over a map. So I spent long winter evenings plotting my traverse on the map, click by click. The goal was clear – to stick as close as possible to the ridges along our northern border, from Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland all the way to Šumperk, and to avoid asphalt as much as possible along the way.

Of course, reality is never as rosy as the line on the map, so I also got my necessary share of pushing and carrying, both uphill and downhill. Great resources for finding out where you can get with a bike, and how hard it will be, include not only [Mapy.cz](https://mapy.cz/turisticka?x=15.0822483&y=49.8374742&z=8&l=0) but also [Cykloserver](https://www.cykloserver.cz/cykloatlas/#pos=49.649165P15.693187P8@b=2), which offers a surface classification, so you can easily find out where a treat awaits you in the form of a gnarly enduro descent and where, on the other hand, you can rest on a firm surface. For trips to more remote areas, where you won't find an outlet around every corner, it's handy to have a standalone GPS unit. This time I got by with a smartphone.

Whatever method of navigation and planning you use, above all remind yourself that adventure always begins "where the lions live." Don't stick to your planned route too anxiously. You'll have the best experiences when you make an unplanned turn onto a tempting trail, or take the locals' advice and set off to explore some hidden corners away from the tourist crowds.

- [REAL Turmat Beef Stew (new recipe)](/p/real-turmat-beef-stew.md)
- [Adventure Menu Chicken Tikka Masala with Basmati Rice](/p/adventure-menu-chicken-tikka-masala-with-basmati-rice.md)
- [TOAKS LIGHT Titanium 550 ml Pot](/p/toaks-light-pot-550-ml.md)
- [Jetboil Jetpower Fuel 230 g](/p/jetboil-jetpower-fuel-230-g.md)
- [MSR PocketRocket Deluxe](/p/msr-pocketrocket-deluxe.md)
- [MSR Titan Kettle 900 ml](/p/msr-titan-kettle-900-ml.md)
- [Sea To Summit Frontier UL Cutlery Set Long Handle 2P](/p/sea-to-summit-frontier-ul-cutlery-set-long-handle-2p.md)
- [Sea To Summit Camp Cutlery Spork Charcoal](/p/sea-to-summit-camp-cutlery-spork-charcoal.md)

## **And what's there to eat?**

That's a question you can't avoid even when bikepacking. Anyone who has tried riding a longer distance on a bike has surely tasted what the so-called "bonk" is all about. To avoid this cycling delirium, you need to regularly replenish sugar and all the other essential fuels throughout the day.

You have to adapt your supplies to your plan – it depends on whether you're heading somewhere away from civilization, where you'll sometimes have to get by on your own supplies for up to several days, or whether you'll be wandering through fairly densely populated countryside, where you'll always end up coming across some pub or shop. For my first trip, I stocked up only on a pile of dried fruit and oats for breakfast, and I refueled on all other meals at pubs along the way. The perfect chance to compare the quality of blueberry dumplings across our north (maybe I'll reveal the winner someday).

[Food for bikepacking and lightweight multi-day treks](/blog/tips-for-eating-on-trail) has to do the nearly impossible – it should be light, compact, and as nutritious as possible all at once. If you plan to cook from your own supplies too, it pays to invest in ultralight [titanium cookware](/c/cooking/cookware) and consider swapping gas for a [compact alcohol stove](/p/toaks-alcohol-stove). Besides minimalist provisions, though, definitely don't hesitate to top up with a proper meal now and then – after your second day in the saddle, goulash with six dumplings will feel like a light snack.

*Moonvalley*

## **Time to head out**

- Nový Bor – Severní
- km: 65 – ascent: 1200 m / descent: 1160 m

Final preparations, a few hours of sleep… Around noon I sluggishly step off the train in Nový Bor and reluctantly pedal up the first hill. The landscape rolls from the volcanoes of the Central Bohemian Uplands, through the chill of Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland, all the way to the godforsaken Šluknov Hook. In the fields I meet a group of cycle tourists loaded down with massive panniers. They heft my bike in disbelief – suddenly, compared to their monsters of maybe thirty kilos, it doesn't feel heavy at all. After a hot, sleepy day, the last descent finally arrives. I let go of the brakes and enjoy the adrenaline rush of flying through the evening forest. I casually reach into my pocket for my phone to check where I actually am… uh-oh, it's not there. After a quick check of my bags, I realize that on the last hill I shook loose not just my phone, but also my jacket and shoes.

Hysterically amused, I push back up the hill. To my own amazement, I gradually find everything I'd shaken loose. I roll into the shelter after dark. I meet Ondra, who has more than one serious bikepacking trip under his belt, including the legendary American Tour Divide, and we talk mountains, trails, and everything that goes with bikepacking late into the night. I finally feel like I'm on the road. I fall asleep and dream of ridges stretching out ahead of me seemingly into infinity. I've finally understood what freedom traveling by mountain bike really offers.

**Tip of the day: Before you set off, don't forget to fasten all your pockets and buckles. Then maybe you won't have to play mushroom picker like me.**

*Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 Bikepack*

## **The chicken odyssey**

- Severní – Oldřichovské sedlo
- km: 90
- ascent: 1290 m
- descent: 1220 m

A long day awaits me, so I set off at first light. Ondra and I wish each other a safe journey, and soon I'm whizzing against the grain over several crests south toward the ridge of the Lusatian Mountains. Here, finally, comes the terrain I came for. The lightly loaded bike is obedient on the trail, the steel flexes just as it should, and I even manage a few spicy rocky sections with it. Before long, a proper thunderstorm appears on my heels, and I race it all the way to the foothills of the Jizera Mountains. In an instant, the hot summer day turns into autumn, and I finally, excitedly pull my rain gear out of the [waterproof dry bag](/p/sea-to-summit-evac-compression-dry-bag) on my handlebars.

[Sea To Summit eVac Compression Dry Bag UL](/p/sea-to-summit-evac-compression-dry-bag-ul.md)

I'm racing against time – today went so well that I have a chance to make it to the far-famed U Kozy pub at Oldřichovské sedlo. The cherry on top, before a few beers, Kofolas, and half a roast chicken land in my cycling-hunger-ravaged body, is a final technical climb through the forest. I survived, stuffed myself, and now stroll among the rocks of Oldřichovské sedlo. I can hardly believe I've made it all the way to the Jizera Mountains. The sun sets almost kitschily among the rocks, and I contentedly crawl into my sleeping bag.

**Tip of the day: It's going to rain, so a lightweight membrane jacket comes in handy, and when cold and mud unexpectedly set in, so do** [**waterproof socks**](/blog/how-to-choose-waterproof-socks)**.**

[DexShell Running Lite Sock 2.0](/p/dexshell-running-lite-sock-2-0.md)

*DexShell Ultra Weather Winter Gloves*

## **How I forded my way to Poland**

- Oldřichovské sedlo – Horní Mísečky
- km: 65
- ascent: 1570 m
- descent: 1040 m

Thanks to their ridge-top "roads," the Jizera Mountains are known as mountains for cyclists and cross-country skiers. In the morning I start my crossing of the Jizera Mountains with a beautiful, endless descent along the Viničná cesta and then an equally endless push back up to the ridge. At every well-known snack bar I have at least a Kofola and a pastry, and on a glycemic wave I cruise easily all the way to the settlement of Jizerka, where I plan to continue across the border bridge into Poland. But that's a bridge too far. Literally. Since winter, the bridge over the Jizera has managed to collapse, so I have no choice but to ford the river, bike and all. My joy over this year's fairly favorable water levels fades when, halfway across the river with my bike over my head, I discover that where the water used to come just above my ankles, it's now knee-deep.

Little groups of Czech and Polish tourists eagerly take front-row seats, pull out snacks and cameras, and watch my fierce battle with the current. After a few tense moments, though, I make it to the other side, and once the unsolicited fans finally scatter, I treat myself to an icy bath. Then it's just another dash ahead of the storm through Poland to Harrachov and an endless climb up to the Krkonoše ridge along the Mumlava Falls.

**Tip of the day: For bikepacking you need not only strong legs, but also the ability to swim and pose for photos. Then, of course, it's handy to have an** [**ultralight towel**](/p/sea-to-summit-pocket-towel-2022)**.**

- [Sea To Summit Pocket Towel 2022](/p/sea-to-summit-pocket-towel-2022.md)
- [Sea To Summit Airlite Towel – Small](/p/sea-to-summit-airlite-towel-small.md)
- [Sea To Summit Pocket Shower](/p/sea-to-summit-pocket-shower.md)
- [Gramino SagiFlow](/p/gramino-sagiflow-ultralight-bidet.md)
- [Sea To Summit Wilderness Wash 100 ml](/p/sea-to-summit-wilderness-wash-100-ml.md)
- [Sea To Summit Wilderness Wash Pocket Soap](/p/sea-to-summit-wilderness-wash-pocket-soap.md)
- [Sea To Summit Airlite Towel – Medium](/p/sea-to-summit-airlite-towel-medium.md)
- [Sea To Summit Pocket Trowel](/p/sea-to-summit-pocket-trowel.md)

## **Krkonoše, Vraní hory, and post-apocalyptic Poland**

- Horní Mísečky – Adršpach
- km: 85
- ascent: 2070 m
- descent: 2570 m

Today is all about elevation gain – on an empty stomach, I start with a plunge down to Špindl, then climb endlessly up to Výrovka and descend to Pec for a hearty breakfast. Many people warned me that the Krkonoše and bikes don't go together… the opposite is true, but you have to factor proper fitness and good brakes into the equation. After breakfast, another dose of descents and climbs awaits me, all the way up to the hills above Žacléř, where I link the Krkonoše straight onto the deserted Vraní hory and Jestřebí hory, which are known for tough but beautiful natural trails. This is how I always imagined bikepacking – one moment I'm whizzing downhill through dense forest, the next I'm praying my way through steep rocky sections and mud and enjoying terrain only an MTB can handle. Of course, it doesn't come without lots of pushing, carrying, and constantly searching for the way along forgotten border paths.

On one descent, though, I shake loose an absolutely crucial screw from my shifter. After a moment of despair, it dawns on me that the solution is right in front of me. I easily secure the shifter with the miracle tape I'd wrapped around my top tube before leaving, just in case. The legends didn't lie – it really does fix everything. Due to the onset of the "bonk," the rest of the ride to Adršpach becomes a truly psychedelic experience. With the last of my strength, I turn the pedals through the run-down Polish borderlands, where gleaming churches stand among ruined houses, where there should be asphalt there's gravel, and where there should be a bike path there's a trail. Adršpach at last. I stuff myself shamelessly with several courses, meet up with friends, and we laugh over pints late into the night.

**Tip of the day: The more interesting the terrain, the more stuff will fall off your bike. Learn basic maintenance, get quality tools, and above all don't forget a good supply of all-purpose tape (duct tape).**

## **Orlické highways**

- Adršpach – Pastviny
- km: 105
- ascent: 1750 m
- descent: 1740 m

Yesterday's combination of meters climbed and beers downed pushes my departure dangerously close to noon. After a stop at a bike shop in Teplice, where I treat the bike to new brake pads, I hurry and pedal nonstop all the way to Šerlich in the Orlické Mountains. All I remember from the Orlické Mountains are endless, depressing roads along the ridge and a hellish thirst, from which a group of scouts luckily rescued me. I roll over Anenský vrch and enjoy an endless descent all the way to Zemská brána.

**Tip of the day: When you run out of water, you've got to run into some scouts. But if you don't want to rely on chance encounters with scouts, it's also handy to have a larger** [**Platypus hydration bladder**](/p/platypus-big-zip-evo)**.**

- [Platypus Platy 2.0 L Bottle](/p/platypus-platy-bottle-2-l.md)
- [Platypus Big Zip EVO](/p/platypus-big-zip-evo.md)
- [Platypus Big Zip EVO Drink Tube Kit 2 L](/p/platypus-big-zip-evo-drink-tube-kit.md)
- [CNOC Vecto 2 L 28 mm](/p/cnoc-vecto-2-l-28-mm.md)
- [CNOC QuickHose](/p/cnoc-quickhose.md)
- [Platypus Softbottle 1.0 L Platy Logo Closure Cap](/p/platypus-softbottle-1-l-platy-logo-closure-cap.md)

## **Finally, a bit of hiking too**

- Pastviny – Šumperk
- km: 95
- ascent: 1820 m
- descent: 2040 m

I won't soon forget the final day of my first bikepacking trip. From the foothills I slowly climb all the way up to Králický Sněžník, whose slopes are crossed by a number of beautiful panoramic bike routes. At one turnoff, though, I decide to heed the call of the wild. On the map, it looks like my chosen path ends halfway, but I tell myself I've never yet seen a trail that ends in the middle of the forest. So I'm all the more surprised when, about an hour later, that's exactly what happens.

I stare at the map for a while and finally conclude that the best option is to push the bike a few hundred meters up an old path to a hiking trail, and then carry it over the summit to where the route through the reserve reconnects with the bike path. I meet an elderly Polish man with a bike on his back, and we cheer each other on all the way to the summit. I look out over the landscape and realize that today I'll make it to Šumperk and my journey is ending… Even before I reach the finish, it's clear to me that bikepacking is true love for life.

- [Cumulus X-Lite 200](/p/cumulus-x-lite-200.md)
- [Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL1 Bikepack](/p/big-agnes-copper-spur-hv-ul1-bikepack.md)
- [Big Agnes Tiger Wall UL2 Bikepack Solution Dye](/p/big-agnes-tiger-wall-ul2-bikepack-solution-dye.md)
- [DD Hammocks SuperLight Bikepacker Tarp](/p/dd-hammocks-superlight-bikepacker-tarp.md)
- [DD Hammocks SuperLight – Bikepacker Mesh Tent](/p/dd-hammocks-superlight-bikepacker-mesh-tent.md)
- [Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol](/p/therm-a-rest-z-lite-sol.md)
- [Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT](/p/therm-a-rest-neoair-xlite-nxt.md)
- [NEMO Tensor All-Season](/p/nemo-tensor-all-season.md)
- [Hyperlite Mountain Gear Stuff Sack Pillow](/p/hyperlite-mountain-gear-stuff-sack-pillow.md)
- [Warmpeace Shelter Tarp](/p/warmpeace-shelter-tarp.md)
- [Liteway Illusion Duo Tent (2024)](/p/liteway-illusion-duo-tent-2024.md)

I look back along our northern border and once again replay the whole route I'd planned for so many years and finally managed to make happen this year thanks to bikepacking. I carve through the last kilometers over two more crests, and then a food crawl through my favorite Šumperk spots awaits. My first bikepacking trip opened the door to a whole new world where neither kilometers nor terrain stand in the way. I doze on the train and dream of all my future trips, misty mornings on the trail, and nights under the stars of distant mountains.

**Tip of the day: Count every gram when packing – when you're pushing and carrying your bike through the forest, those grams will make you pay. On a bikepacking trip, you can save weight on basic gear such as a** [**sleeping pad**](/c/sleep/sleeping-pads) **or a** [**sleeping bag**](/c/sleep/sleeping-bags)**, but also on small items such as** [**ultralight cookware**](/c/cooking/cookware) **or** [**dehydrated food**](/c/cooking/food)**.**

## **And the most important thing for last?**

Now you know [what to pack and how](/blog/how-to-get-started-with-bikepacking), as well as what obstacles you might run into on your first bikepacking trip. But the most important part is up to you! Bikepacking isn't rocket science – all you have to do is heed the call of the road, get on your bike, and set off… it will take you exactly where you're meant to go.

- [Liteway Gramless Pack 35 L](/p/liteway-gramless-pack-x-pac-35-l.md)
- [Liteway Pokkie Pack](/p/liteway-pokkie-pack.md)
- [Liteway Sleeping Pad Cover](/p/liteway-sleeping-pad-cover.md)
- [Therm-a-Rest Z Lite](/p/therm-a-rest-z-lite.md)
- [Sea To Summit Pocket Trowel](/p/sea-to-summit-pocket-trowel.md)
- [Liteway Lite Pocket](/p/liteway-lite-pocket.md)
- [Sea To Summit Pocket Towel 2022](/p/sea-to-summit-pocket-towel-2022.md)
- [Sea To Summit Airlite Towel – Small](/p/sea-to-summit-airlite-towel-small.md)
- [Nikwax Down Wash Direct 1 L](/p/nikwax-down-wash-direct-1-l.md)
- [Liteway Wash Bag](/p/liteway-wash-bag.md)
- [Kula Cloth](/p/kula-cloth-pee-cloth.md)

This post is also available as [HTML](/blog/my-first-bikepacking-trip).

## Sitemap

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